Fur stole the show during the recent men’s AW collections, proving that it is not just for women, with an estimated 63% of shows overall including this most versatile of materials. The icy weather that finally descended on Europe and North America in time for the shows was a perfect backdrop to this catwalk trend, which we are likely to see translated into every day fashion.
In the first of the shows in London, 28 of the 60 designers (47%), including Astrid Anderson, Coach 1941 and JW Anderson used fur across accessories, coats, and jackets. The true showstoppers of the day were the oversized and over-fluffed coats showcased by Burberry and Coach 1941. Whilst their size may be intimidating, when teamed with streetwear pieces such as bomber jackets, sweatshirts and trainers, they give a tough city look that’s ready for any weather condition.
However, fur made its biggest impact during Milan Men’s Fashion Week AW16, with a majority – 35 out of 38 designers (92%) – crafting garments with the material; from Dolce & Gabbana’s oversized coats to the fur stoles of Marni and Giorgio Armani. One collection that really caught the imagination of those in attendance was Moncler’s AW 16 collection, with the French-Italian lifestyle brand assembling coloured furs in a patchwork effect to create a dramatic camouflage collection.
Next up in Paris, 32 of the 49 designers (65%) incorporated a range of furs, from Boris Bidjan Saberi’s black drop-crotch fur shorts to Valentino’s longline mixed pelt gilets.
Whilst the gothic punk stylings of Rick Owens shocked with a blend of horror films and furs, it was Louis Vuitton that caught the essence of sartorial Paris. With reference to the maison’s current exhibition ‘Volez, Voguez, Voyagez’, Kim Jones’s collection blended pelts seamlessly into classic menswear pieces, from the long double breasted coats in full fur to the collection’s furry jumpers, perfect for land, air and sea travel.
Mark Oaten, CEO of International Fur Federation (IFF), said: “It’s brilliant to see this season’s men’s collections making huge fur style statements. Designers are sending men down runways in a wide range of wearable fur styles: everything from the modern bomber, fur trimmed parka and the classic coat with an oversized fur collar or stole as a modern twist. None of these would look out of place in any major city across the globe. Admittedly the more whimsical animal prints and full fur garments might raise a few eyebrows, but all in all, more and more men are comfortable wearing fur, and it’s a trend you can’t ignore.”